These qualities were seen in so many of the collections we carry, with The Row, Khaite, Fforme, and Phoebe Philo on the rich and subdued end of the spectrum, and Zankov and Dries Van Noten on the other. Menswear influences, such as striped polos and shirting, ties, and pajama dressing really interested our customer, but not in an oversized, overwhelming way.
Henry Zankov had everyone mixing and matching colors in unpredictable ways and singlehandedly made paillettes irresistible. Scarves, scarves, scarves, especially in silk twill tied at the neck, worn as a belt or skirt, or tied on a bag resonated with every age. And despite the increasing price, gold jewelry still wins, although silver is beginning to make the run to catch up!
How would you characterize the look of 2025 for day and for evening?
The strongest look for day is a beautifully cut trouser and an understated, functional handbag (suede the most tempting this year), paired with a loafer, slide, or low heel. She’ll often pair this with a nice tee or shirt, along with a sweater thrown over her shoulders. For evening, she looks to elegant dresses—close to the body (but not tight or body conscious) worn with a heel and jewelry; nothing terribly formal. The sheer pencil skirt trend has also resonated here—Maria McManus or Diotima iterations a go-to. She tends to buy pieces for evening that suit her individual style, that can be worn again, and aren’t overly look-at-me.
What didn’t connect this year?
Our customer has been moving away from things that are “overly”: overly body-con, overly ruffled, overly architectural, overly proportioned, overly serious, overly frivolous.
How were your customers thinking about spending money on fashion?
The customer is not afraid to spend on pieces that are special and will last; of course handbags and jewelry, but also coats and jackets. They will also spend on something that fits well and can be worn relentlessly, such as a pair of hard to find, killer pair of vintage selvedge Levi’s.
Who (and what) was new to your store in 2025 that really connected with your customers?
Our customer is always looking for something new and loves coming along with us for the ride; she will not buy something just to buy it, or to replicate something already in her wardrobe, so it needs to stand out or serve a new purpose. We found so much new within our stable of brands, with the emerging designers mentioned above (Zankov, Diotima, Fforme to name a few) really pushing things forward. With that said, the introduction of Phoebe Philo really hit a nerve, and exquisite shirting from Sebline stole the show as well.
2025 was a year of so many designer changes. How did your customer view them?
So many of our customers are loyal to brands that haven’t seen changes (The Row, Khaite, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Sacai; hmmm, all women-designed), many are aware of the swirling elsewhere and find it exciting, and some really have no idea! I think what may have felt disconcerting at first to those paying attention—the unknown-ness of it all—has turned into the realization that things were ready to change, and now that the changes are starting to surface, it’s thrilling!
Sherri McMullen, McMullen, San Francisco, CA
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